The Balearics
Floating
dreamily between Spain and the North African coast, lie
the Balearic Islands. The four main islands – Mallorca, Menorca,
Ibiza and Formentera maintain a character distinct from the rest of Spain
and from each other. During the months of June, July, and August, there
is a massive invasion of multinational sun-and-fun seekers. Hardly surprising
considering what the Balearic Islands have to offer: fine beaches, relentless
sunshine, good food, casinos and wild nightlife.
The best way to visit, obviously,
is by yacht. That way you can enjoy the craziness, yet escape or avoid
it completely if you wish to. Beyond the 24 hour parties are Gothic cathedrals,
Stone Age ruins, secluded coves and towering mountains. Let’s start
our discovery of the Islands with Formentera, the most southerly of the
larger islands. The smallest of the four main Balearic Islands, Formentera
is actually two small islets joined together by a narrow, sandy isthmus.
Known as the “Forgotten Balearic”, Formentera is the getaway-from-the-getaway.
Bikers and hikers will revel in the untouched landscapes and well-marked
trails; swimmers will appreciate the sandy beaches and crystalline water.
The Romans grew wheat extensively
on Formentera, hence its name, as forment means “cultivation of
wheat” in the local dialect. The island was at various points, inhabited
by Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans. In the Middle Ages constant pirate
attacks made it uninhabitable and the island was abandoned for about 300
years until it was finally safe from pirate attacks. If you are looking
for culture, this isn’t it. The capital, Sant Francesc de Formentera,
is not much more than an 18th century fortified church, a small ethnological
museum and a cluster of hippy-style craft shops. It lies on the shores
of Estany Pudent, a large lagoon that attracts flocks of migrating birds.
To the west is Estany de Peix, a smaller lagoon protected as a nature
reserve. The island is very arid, covered in wild rosemary and home to
thousands of brilliant green Ibiz wall lizards. On the northern bank stands
the monument of Ca na Costa. The stone slabs are thought to be a pre-historic
burial ground, dating from about 4,000 years ago. At the eastern point
of Formentera is La Mola, there is a lookout point with a lighthouse and
a monument to Jules Verne. The lack of water on Formentera keeps development
within acceptable limits, which means the number of people you will be
sharing the longest, whitest beaches in Spain with fewer people than anywhere
else in the Balearics. And, when you are tired of the beach, you get to
return to your yacht, not to a crowded hotel.
Eleven nautical miles away lies
Ibiza – or Eivissa in Catalan – island of excess. This is
where the party crowd from all over Europe and beyond comes to play and
Ibiza City is the capital – of the island and of the fun. For this
hedonistic crowd, daylight hours are usually spent on the beaches. Streets
are packed with people exploring the whitewashed, warren – like
port area, where many of the boutiques stay open until 2 am. Bars are
open until 3:30m or later, and afterward the action moves to the clubs
until daylight, and for the serious fun seeker, there are more after-hour
clubs. Oh, there is also a casino there that will be happy to help part
you with your money. If clubs and street fashion are not your cup of tea,
avoid July and August. If you absolutely have to come during those months
and yearn for a bit less conviviality, head away from Ibiza City!
Best
enjoyed during the off season, Ibiza City itself is actually a very interesting
town, complete with a charming old quarter. When you approach the town
from the sea on your charter yacht you receive the full impact of the
sight of old medieval wall rising like a natural extension of the rocky
cliffs protecting the harbor. A large cathedral located within the walls
and is topped by a massive clock. Illuminated at night, the brilliance
of it shines across the harbor. The stone walls you see when you are coming
into the port reach a dramatic climax at the imposing main entrance, the
Portal de ses Taules, a triple gateway designed to withstand the heaviest
artillery barrage. To get a glimpse of the island’s ancient past,
spend some time in the Dalt Vila (old town). The site of the cathedral
you glimpse upon entering the harbor has been a place of worship for over
two thousand years, originally occupied by a Carthaginian temple.
The cathedral’s Diocesan
museum exhibits medieval Catalan art and displays of ecclesiastical regalia.
Across the square from the cathedral is the Museu Arqueologic d’Eivissa
I Formentera, with its collection of local archeological finds. The majority
of the objects on display are from Phoenician and Carthaginian sites,
but there are also some bones from Formentera that date back to 1600 BC,
plus various Arab and Roman curiosities.
Once away from the multitude
of people in Ibiza City, the beaches and coves are less crowded, the water
more pristine. Working our way around the island, the east coast has several
fine anchorages, perfect for relaxing either on board or on the beach.
Tiny Cala Mastella is a supremely peaceful spot, with a diminutive sandy
beach, crystal –clear sheltered water and two simple fish restaurants,
excellent places to sample the local food. A bit north is Cala Boix, another
stunning beautiful sandy cove, but slightly larger and more exposed. Almost
at the furthest northeast point is Cala D’en Serra, a tiny, exquisite
sandy cove with turquoise waters that are perfect for snorkeling.
Heading west from the Cala D’en
Serra, you arrive at Benirras, another beautiful cove, but this one is
backed by high, wooded cliffs. Benirras is Ibiza’s premier hippie-centric
beach where dozens of throw-backs from the 60’s gather to burn herbs
and pound drums to the setting sun, especially on Sundays. The southwest
side of the island is home to town of Sant Antoni de Portmany. Most of
the people visiting there are on package tours, so this is a place that
you might want to give a miss to. Cala Salada is just far enough from
the village so that you can anchor and enjoy the fine sand beach and clear
waters without being disturbed by hordes of tourists. At the extreme south
end of Ibiza is Ses Salines. Beaches here are apt to be filled with party-goers
overflowing from Ibiza City during season, but there is usually tranquility
to be found in the area surrounding the extensive salt flats. Water sports
abound around Ibiza, so you will have plenty of opportunity to try out
all of the toys that are sure to be on your charter yacht. Scuba diving
is excellent in this area, divers will want to confer with their captain
to schedule dives with local dive shops, so as to maximize their enjoyment
underwater.
Cabrera lies just to the south
of Majorca and is the total antithesis of Ibiza. The entire island was
declared a nature preserve in 1991, with access controlled by the Spanish
National Institute for the Conservation of Nature. The island is a haven
of isolation after the excesses of Ibiza, and indeed, much of the Mediterranean.
Limited permits are available, but must be applied for in advance. Often
the easiest and best way to visit the island itself is with a tour. Since
the island has a strong military history, with certain parts of it off
limits due to unexploded armaments, a tour might be the smartest way to
visit this island of stunning wildlife and vegetation.
When visiting the Balearics,
most people will fly into and out of, Palma de Majorca. Serving as the
capital of the Balearics, this upbeat city of 350,000 has a lively cultural
scene. Majorca defies expectations of visitors by presenting them with
vistas of aristocratic mansions and a magnificent Gothic cathedral in
Palma contrasted to the soaring, rugged peaks of the Serra de Tramuntana
mountains along the northwest coast.
Palma was founded by the Romans
in 123 B.C., captured by the Moors in A.D. 903, and entered the Catalan
net in 1229. Approaching Palma on your charter yacht, the city is both
beautiful and impressive, the wonderful Gothic edifice of the La Seu cathedral
with its magnificent rose window welcoming you into the port. Five hundred
years in the making, the original foundation came with the Christian Reconquest
of the city with the site taken, in fulfillment of a vow by Jaume I, was
that of the Moorish Great Mosque. Once you have found your way up the
narrow streets and lanes to visit the cathedral, you might as well avail
yourself of a couple of other interesting venues while you are there.
Immediately to the east of the cathedral lies the Museo de Majorca, where
archaeological exhibits and medieval artworks are displayed in a 17th
century mansion. The Museu d’Art Espanyol Contemporani is home to
works by such great Spanish artists as Picasson, Juan Gris and Dali. Also
of interest is the Palau March Museu with its panoramic sculpture terrace
featuring pieces by Rodin, Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth and Eduardo Chillida.
The
northwest side of Majorca is at is scenic best when viewing the gnarled
ridge of the Serra de Tramuntana, the imposing mountain range that is
topped by a tortuous cliff-top road. Music lovers might want to hire a
car to make the journey to the Carthusain Monastery of Validemossa. Its
claim to fame is the romance from the winter of 1838-39 when the French
writer George Sands and her lover, Frederic Chopin, stayed here. Their
time together is recalled by hourly piano concerts, enjoyed by all. The
views from your yacht will be of plunging sea cliffs and rearing mountain
peaks often wreathed in clouds. The few beaches that dot the shoreline
are often small and shingly. On up the coast, your yacht will round Cap
de Formentor with its lighthouse perched 650 feet above the waves below.
Continuing on you will arrive at Port De Pollenca. With the mountains
as a backdrop, the Badia de Pollenca is a deeply indented bay rimmed by
a thin strip of pure white sand, its waters perfect for waterskiing and
swimming. The next bay is Badia d’Alcudia, anchored Port d’Alcudia.
A busy resort town with interesting
restaurants and shops, the main focus is the beach which stretches in
an arc of pine-studded golden sand south of the marina. If you want to
rent a bike and go for a ride, head for the Parc Natural de S’Albufera.
A quick peddle away, it is accessible only by foot or bike. Stop at the
reception center for a map of the footpaths that radiate out into the
reedy, watery tract. There are 10 “hides” to allow for bird
watching. Over two hundred species have been spotted.
We finish our circumnavigation
of Majorca by following on down the southeast coast, which is dotted with
narrow coves, the remnantsof prehistoric river valleys. In turn, the real
drama of this coast lies in the island’s 800 or so limestone caves.
Two of the most famous (and fabulous) are the Coves des Hams and the Coves
del Drac. They can only be visited by guided tour, if you don’t
want to experience both, opt for Drac. A tour of this awesome geological
sight with its dripping stalactites, includes a boat ride across Lago
Martel, the largest subterranean lake in the world. The icing on the cake
of this experience is the boatloads of musicians playing classical music
in this eerie natural amphitheater.
Next stop: the second largest
of the Balearic Islands, boomerang-shaped Menorca.
The least developed of the Balearics, Menorca is essentially a rural island
with rolling fields and wooded ravines. Declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve
in 1993, over forty percent of the island enjoys official protection.
Mao, the capital, lies at the end of a three mile inlet and is one of
the safest harbors in the Mediterranean. Mao has a place in culinary history
as the eighteenth-century birthplace of mayonnaise. Various stories abound
on its creation, all of them involving the French, some of them very inventive.
Take you pick on enjoy! The town of Citutadella, on the opposite side
of the island of Mao, had originally served as the capital city. The Romans
chose it, the Moors adopted it, the Catlans flattened the place and began
all over again. In 1558, the Catalan-built town was, in its turn, razed
by Turkish corsairs. To the colonial powers of the eighteenth century,
Ciutadella narrow port had no appeal compared to Mao’s magnificent
three mile inlet. In 1722 the British moved the capital to Mao and constructed
the main island road. More importantly, they introduced the art of distilling
juniper berries. Menorcan gin is renowned and is certainly worth trying.
Before most of it was killed
off by tourism, agriculture was important. A dry stone wall protected
every field from the tramontana (the vicious north wind) which rips away
the topsoil. Even olive trees had their roots individually protected in
little stone wells. Now, apart from a few acres of grain, the fields lie
barren with only the walls surviving. The walls are not the only notable
creations made of stone. Menorca is home to over 500 megalithic monuments
thought to be linked to those on Sardinia and classified as part of the
second-millennium BC Talayot culture. Three main types of monument exist:
one is the talayots, which are rock mounds popularly believed to have
functioned as watchtowers. The problem with that theory is the lack of
interior stairways and the fact that only a few are found on the coast.
But no one has really come up with a better idea, so that theory persists.
The second type is the megalithic taulas- huge stones topped with another
to form a T, around twelve feet high, which are unique to Menorca. Finally,
there are navetas, stone slab construction dating from 1400 to 800 BC,
shaped like an inverted bread tin. Many have false ceilings, and though
most are large enough for you to stand up in, they were clearly not living
spaces. Theory is they might have been communal pantries or possibly tombs.
Some of the best preserved talayot and taula remains are on the edge of
Mao at the Trepuco site.
Fascinating
as the historical sites are, the best part of Menorca are the large bays
with their many, often-secluded anchorages and the miles of unspoiled
beaches. Located on the northern coast, Fornells is a small, classically
pretty fishing village at the mouth of a long bay. There are numerous
anchorages here, waiting to be explored. Beaches in this area are apt
to be pebbles and red-ocher sand backed by windy heath. While they are
a bit uncomfortable of sunbathing, they are of such outstanding beauty
to be notable. The wild and rocky coastline west of Fornells boasts several
more of these isolated cove beaches, perfect for the charter guests looking
for the unique. For those looking for white sand beaches, plenty are located
on the southern end of Menorca, Cala en Turqueta, close to Ciutadella
is one of the most notable.
Four islands, four distinctly
different personalities. The Balearics are perfect for everyone. Whether
you are interested in partying the night away, secluded anchorages, hiking
in the mountains, snorkeling in clear blue waters or just basking in the
relentless Mediterranean sunshine, the venue is just a short cruise away.
Easy to get to, impossible to forget: Formentera, Ibiza, Majorca and Menorca
are waiting for you.
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